Scroll down for preparation instructions
The GMD 16 page How-To Wash Diapers Booklet is available when you add it to your cart: How To Wash Cloth Diapers Booklet. The Booklet is more detailed than this page is but this will give you a great start.
There are many ways to wash cloth diapers. If you ask 10 people how to wash diapers you will get 10 different answers. But no worries. You will come up with your own system that works best for you. Diaper laundry is the best laundry in the house. Nothing to iron, you don't need to worry about wrinkles, all the diaper laundry is together in one load so there's nothing to sort or hang up. You don't really need to even sort it at all if you don't want to. You can use them right out of the laundry basket. But it's fun to pile them with baby. It's very satisfying to accomplish something tangible in the day. The diapers are soft and lovely when they are done. I think it's much more fun to stack clean cloth diapers with baby than the alternative method of carseat, drive, shop, pay, then add to the landfill. Diaper laundry is my favorite laundry.
Babies love to help with the laundry. It's fun!
Prep the diapers first. Scroll down for prepping information.
There are many ways to wash diapers. Washers vary, detergents/soaps vary, and water conditions vary (hardness, acidity/alkalinity, etc.). Try different ways to find out what works for you.
Here's our favorite method: Run a warm wash cycle first. Then hot wash on regular cycle. Extra rinse once or twice. That's it. Easy!
There is no one-best way and you need to come up with your own set-up and your favorite wash routine over time. It's really not complicated when you choose easy-to-wash cotton diapers.
Here is the basic outline of all wash routines
Step 1. Somehow you need to get the pee and poop off the diapers so that your main wash is not full of soiled water.
Step 2. Run a main hot wash with detergent to clean the diapers.
Step 3. Somehow you need to rinse the diapers so the detergent is no longer in the diapers.
Step 4. Get the diapers dry somehow.
For a newborn baby's diapers, put the soiled diaper into a dry well-ventilated pail with a pail liner, or use the pail liner as a hanging pail liner to allow more air circulation. A breastfed baby's soil is a bit like yogurt so you can decide if you want to dunk or spray off the diaper or not. If you spray or dunk off, you'll have less staining, but some staining is not big deal and you can decide if you want to do that or not. When it's time to wash, use the pail liner to transport the diapers to the machine, and use the pail liner like a glove as you turn it inside out putting the diapers into the machine. Throw the liner in the machine, also. This way you never touch a thing! No soaking is needed (but you can run a cool or warm soak cycle if you want to). Doing a prewash cycle first minimizes dunking and helps you main hot wash be in cleaner water. It really is easy!
Small apartment with a washer? Try the No-Pail Method. Some people don't use a diaper pail at all, but instead simply put all diapers directly into the washer and now and then run short cycles so they have no odors, until the washer is full enough to run their regular diaper washing washes. This works well if you happen to have a changing area near the washing machine, and is truly odor free since the diapers get rinsed out frequently. This is great in small apartments or condos where there is a small small washer nearby since it is so odor-free. Remember if you have a small washer, don't buy as many diapers (2 dozen will be plenty, washing about 14 at at time and the rest for spares and use during wash time). Just wash more frequently because you can't overload the washing machine. There are so many ways to do this and set things up! I mention the no-pail method just to show you how many different ways there are to set things up and to get you thinking about your physical set up and what will work for you in your situation.
Shared laundry facility? Buy a diaper sprayer and use it. This way the diapers are starting fairly cleaned off, then wash as usual on hot with regular detergent (such as Tide or anything you like). Rinse well. Yes, it really is that easy. Mainstream detergents are recommended for shared laundry facilities.
How do you get the pee and poop off the diapers? Spray or dunk the soiled ones. The Potty Pail is wonderful for spraying off the diapers before they go into your diaper pail. Learn more: We don't sell the Potty Pail but offer a link to their website because it is our favorite sprayer.
Choose any mainstream detergent that you like. Anything mainstream is fine on cotton. Coconut-based natural detergent options are fine, too. Be very cautious about detergents marketed as "for all cloth diapers". Some are good, but others are not. Avoid excessively high pH products often marketed for getting the stink out of microfiber. They can turn soft cotton into something rock-hard or disintegrate it too quickly. If the ingredients of these products were so great, don't you think the big detergent companies would have figured that out? Well, yes, they have figured it that the ingredients are strong. Those strong ingredients are found in products like Oxiclean or oxygen bleach. Read the directions on the Oxiclean packaging and follow them if you use that. So, do some label reading. If the package says "brightens colors" or has whiteners or brighteners, or "optical or UV brighteners", you can decide if that is ok with you. Fabric softeners are designed to coat fabrics. This causes buildup and possibly rashes and will make your covers leak and wick. Don't coat your diapers with stuff. Stick with Tide Unscented, Cheer Free or store brand free and clear liquid. As long as baby is not sensitive to the product, you can use most simple detergents you can find at the grocery store on cotton diapers. Just avoid fabric softeners. We also strongly suggest avoiding scents to protect baby's young, developing and sensitive lungs, but that is a choice for you to decide. We do not recommend homemade DIY detergent. They often cause problems (rashes), they don't have enough surfactants, are harsh with high pH caustic soda ash or borax causing premature fabric wear and dirt redeposits on fabrics.
Popular recommendations are Tide (unscented), Arm and Hammer Sensitive Unscented, Up and Up Free and Clear from Target, and other unscented mainstream laundry products and store brands you can find locally. If your family is ok with these products, they are excellent choices and clean very well. Again we recommend unscented choices as much as possible for baby's lung and brain safety. Do your own research on chemical fragrances and neurotoxins to learn why we prefer unscented laundry options. You can read more about my (Karen's) laundry opinions if you are interested. Choices are different for everyone.
Enzymes are good and help clean. If you are not ok with mainstream products, then there are many natural detergents available on the market today. For example, Seventh Generation Ultra, Country Save, Bum Genius, Bi-O-Kleen Premium Plus Laundry Powder, Ecos, Ecover, Green Shield and others get good reviews. It's not always possible to avoid brighteners since so many products do contain optical brighteners. There are plenty of good choices readily available.
Bi-O-Kleen Bac Out (enzyme laundry additive) is wonderful for getting ammonia stink out. Get some and use it in an initial cold cycle if you need extra deodorizing power in addition to your detergent. This is usually not needed for cotton items, but can really make the difference if you are using synthetics or anything not 100% cotton. There are plenty of choices out there and you don't need "special for cloth" laundry products. Oxi-type cleaning products are good if needed when added to the hot cycle for extra disinfection but do not use it as a detergent.
How do you know if your diapers are clean? Put your nose right up to a clean diaper and breathe in. If it doesn't smell like nothing at all, or smell "clean", it isn't. Wash it again. Don't cover up uncleanness with scents. Choose unscented so you can figure out if it is clean or not. Be sure diapers are thoroughly rinsed to prevent irritations. If baby gets redness on his bottom, it may be time to disinfect your diapers, or you might need to use more detergent. It does take using enough detergent to get things clean. Look in the washing machine for suds during the final rinse to make sure they are rinsed.
Vinegar can be added to the first rinse to help get the detergent rinse out easier. The vinegar is acidic and it breaks up the bubbles and the detergent rinses out easier. Then rinse out the vinegar. Vinegar can be helpful to bring the pH of the diapers down. Skin does prefer a lower pH environment to benefit the skin's natural protective bacteria. Many people do find less redness when using vinegar in the rinse. Try different ways to see what works for you and your water conditions. Vinegar is fine for regular diapers, but it is better not to use vinegar on the all-in-ones or the covers because it is an acid and will damage the waterproofing.
Don't use fabric softener on any of the diapers or covers. It decreases the absorbency of the diapers. But if you must, look into Meyers for consideration.
Be very cautious and careful if you use bleach. Bleach greatly shortens the life of your diapers. But sometimes adding a tiny bit of diluted bleach occasionally is useful if you run into odor problems. I do use diluted bleach once in a while since my well water is not chlorinated. City water is chlorinated already. Overuse will damage things, but careful, occasional light use can be very helpful if needed. Be sure to rewash and dry again after bleach is used. When used wisely and occasionally, it can be a problem-solver.
Hard water? (that means your water has a lot of minerals in it - if you get soap scum easily in your bathtub then your water is hard), try adding some Calgon Water Softener or other softener or Charlies Soap Booster Hard Water Treatment which is potassium diphosphate if you prefer unscented products (but follow caution warning if on a septic system). Add the softener to the water first and let it disperse in the water before you add the detergent. Calgon and other similar water softeners are ok for the diapers. Yes, you still need to rinse well even if you have hard water even if a school of thought says not to extra rinse with hard water. Detergent left in diapers will cause red bottoms so do get that out of the diapers to restore proper pH. We can't tell you how much to rinse and neither can anyone online. Only you can figure out what works in your water and wash situation from your own observations and experiences. Don't follow anyone's instructions blindly, including these. Online helps are information to help you learn but they are not rules.
Link to more of my (Karen's) laundry thoughts.
If you experience so-called "detergent buildup" just run a few hot cycles with just water. This is called stripping your diapers. If you rinse properly and choose laundry products that don't coat your diapers (no dryer sheets, no fabric softener) then you'll never need to strip. It is likely the problem is not really "detergent buildup" but really it is that the diapers aren't clean enough. You may need to disinfect with a little diluted bleach to kill a stink problem if needed, but that is not stripping. That is disinfecting. For stubborn rash creams, hand scrub it out with bar soap or a drop of laundry detergent at your sink. We do not recommend Dawn. It is for dishes not diapers and has a smell that never goes away. Just read the ingredients in Dawn online and then you'll likely also decide not to put them near your baby's bottom. We do not recommend using dish detergent in your washing machine ever. You'll likely have oversudding and the product is not designed for laundry use. It could break your washer. Dish products are not meant for laundry!
Use enough detergent! Not using enough detergent is the most common mistake. The dirtier the load, the more detergent is needed so don't skimp on detergent. Rinse out any diaper soil that you can first, wash often, use enough detergent to get things clean, and rinse completely. You can do this.
For longest life, wash warm. Hang to dry over a rack, not the hanging long way so you don't stretch out the elastics. Washing on hot may be ok. Follow tag instructions for the product. You can dry in the dryer but remove them when dry (after 15 minutes perhaps). Never pull or stretch a warm elastic. Allow them to cool first. Line drying in the sun is not good for covers but an occasional short time layed flat in the sun for a quick freshening can be ok, but don't overdo it.
Polyester diapers and microfiber inserts are hard to wash. We don't sell those for that reason. Choose cotton for hassle-free washing and fewer rashes. When the diapers wash easily, they are cleaner and that means fewer rashes and less stink. Cotton diapers really are the best reusable diapering choice. Want stay-dry? You can add a stay-dry liner or doubler if you find that stay-dry is important to you. Usually it is not important to baby. Just change the diaper often, as you should anyhow, and stay-dry is usually not needed but it is still an option when choosing cotton diapers. Already have microfiber? For easiest washing, we recommend replacing microfiber inserts with cotton inserts or doubler or prefolds as inserts or flat birdseye diapers folded into rectangles. The microfiber is pretty good for dusting. Eliminating synthetic inserts from your diaper laundry makes sense and it really is true that synthetics are difficult to wash. No special detergents are needed for cotton diapers.
Wool is naturally water resistant because of the natural lanolin on it. As you use and wash wool, some of the lanolin wears off, so they need to be re-lanonlized. Don't worry, it's easy! View the video of how to lanolize here. And because you can re-lanolize, wool covers can last through many children! This is a good thing! To re-lanolize, dissolve 1/4 teaspoon of Lansinoh Lanolin in HOT water. The water must be very hot to dissolve the lanolin, then add a little Eucalan or olive oil soap to keep the lanolin from glopping. Fill the sink with warm sink water, then put the wool covers in. Keep the water warm so the lanolin stays melted and doesn't glop. Let them soak in the lanolin water for a while (at least 15 minutes) or as long as overnight. Roll in a towel to get out excess moisture, then set them out to dry in a dry place. How often to relanolize them? Once a month, or once every few months, but sometimes more often, usually less often. Eucalan Wool Wash does add some lanolin, and really is the best wool wash. It decreases the need for relanolizing. We've found that truly re-lanonizing is periodically necessary even if Eucalan is used. Olive oil soap can be used instead of Eucalan, but you will need to relanolize more often. In many ways, wool is actually easier to care for than synthetics because you can keep re-using the cover over and over without washing it. On a toddler, I often go for several months between washings, with 4 wool covers in rotation. I think wool is very easy, and I love they way wool stays fresh and doesn't stink like synthetics do if you don't wash them frequently. Wool is quite easy once the poops settle down and baby is older. But for explosive, liquidy, breastfeed poops, wool can be more work than synthetics. A Potty Pail is great for spraying poop off wool covers when that occurs.
View the how to wash wool VIDEOS.
Wool does not need to be washed often, because the lanolin is naturally antibacterial, so they don't get smelly, and air out to be fresh again. Wash wool in a product made specially for washing wool, such as Eucalan or olive oil soap. Washing by hand is best. Use room temperature water, not icy cold water; don't shock the wool. BE CAREFUL NOT TO SHRINK YOUR WOOL COVERS by agitating too harshly. Knit wools must always be hand washed, but the felted wool covers can be machine washed if you have a very gentle wool cycle if you choose, but we recommend handwashing. If you decide to machine wash, you can, but expect some shrinkage. Let them dry out of direct sunlight in a dry place. Never use a dryer. Don't put a fan directly on them either. A dryer will shrink your wool covers and ruin them.
How does wool work? See it demonstrated:
See videos of how washing machines work to help you learn how to wash diapers in your own washer.
“Prep” your diapers of all kinds and other new cotton items including doublers and stay-dry doublers before using. In short, this means washing them several times on hot and drying them in between cycles before using. Please read the details below, which is for diapers, not covers. Covers should not be prepped with new diapers.
Inspect the diapers before you wash them. Make sure you received what you ordered before you wash them. Please check the diapers for defects before you wash them and contact us report any defects to us and we will take care of you.
Recommended but optional first load separation: If you have also purchased items that are fuzzy and might shed a lot, it is optional but it can be helpful to just once wash and dry them separately, or with your towels, to get those fuzzies off. It can be helpful to wash and dry “sheddy-things” once separately from your prefolds or Workhorse diapers before washing all your diapers, doublers and wipes together. “Sheddy-things” are terry (includes two-sided wipes), sherpa or other soft cotton items that will shed. Shedded fuzzies can get caught in the twill of the prefolds, making them appear pilly. Most people skip this step and just wash everything together and that is fine because any shedded fuzzies will eventually end up in the lint screen anyhow, but if you want to avoid shedding transfer like I do, you can do this one-time separate load.
1. For prefolds of all versions, doublers made of prefold fabric, Workhorse diapers, gauze and birdseye fabric, first, do one cold or warm cycle with just water. This first cycle with no detergent added will rinse out any residual stuff from the manufacturing process. It helps clean out residue in your machine, too. You do not need to dry after this first water-only cycle (it’s optional), but we recommended this initial water only cycle before you begin your prepping on hot. Now you are ready to begin hot prepping cycles.
2. Wash hot regular cycle with detergent then dry on normal. Repeat. Repeat. (Yes, dry in between cycles.)
Drying is important for shrinkage and proper break-in and yes you do need to use detergent. Both white and unbleached items do need to be prepped (washed several times before first use). Don’t try to rush the prepping by using a sanitary or superheated cycle especially in the first 2 or 3 cycles. Whitened items should be ready to use after 3 or 4 cycles. Unbleached might or might not be ready to use yet. Check absorbency by putting some water on a dry diaper. If it soaks in right away, they are ready to use. If not, rewash. Check again. If still not absorbing, then check to see if your water is hot inside the machine and perhaps use more detergent next time. Make sure the water level is correct to get proper agitation. Don’t overdo detergent because there is no dirt in the load to use up detergent, but you still need detergent to break up the natural cotton oils. Unbleached cotton oils are sometimes quite stubborn so keep washing them until they absorb quickly. Correct water level for proper agitation (fabrics rubbing against each other in the machine) also helps to remove the oils. If you normally use a water softener additive, do continue to do what you normally do. Don’t fix something that is not broken. Apply what you already know from your regular laundry to your diapers, too.
Some pilling is normal. Diapers and doublers do need 4 (or more) hot washes before you use them on baby, no matter what kind or brand, white, unbleached, bamboo rayon or hemp. Don’t use oxygen bleaches or washing soda additives when prepping so your diapers don’t get rough and to minimize pilling. If they do get pilly, don’t worry, pills eventually wash off or you can pick them off manually. Too much oxygen cleaner or too high pH and too high of a wash temperature in initial washes can cause extra pilling but some pilling is normal. Beware of some sanitary cycles and steam cycles if they have temperatures over 150 degrees or so which damage fabrics – find out what the actual temperature is. Hot should be about 105-125 degrees. When diapers are new, clean your lint screen halfway through the dry cycle because they will shed a lot at first. We do not recommend boiling diapers.
My new prefold diapers are huge and flat. Yikes! They don’t look like the pictures.
They are big and flat at first but will shrink and get soft and quilty after a few washes and dryings. Some will “quilt” more than others and that is normal. Prefolds are a very non-standard product, with many variations even from one diaper to the next. That is the nature of this kind of fabric.
Help! My unbleached diapers don’t absorb!
Prepping with many cycles in your washer is recommended. Unbleached cotton has its natural water-resistant coating (called cotton oils or cotton wax). This includes unbleached prefolds, organic cotton, Growing Greens fitted diapers, hemp doublers and diapers, unbleached doublers and diapers, anything with unbleached organic cotton or unbleached cotton or hemp, including stay-dry doublers. It takes quite a few washings and dryings for them to reach their full absorbency. Drying in between can help. See above section on prepping your new diapers. Be patient. Keep washing them. Use enough detergent. Make sure the diapers are agitating properly so they rub against each other correctly and the water lever is correct for the load size. Add some towels if you need to fill up space to get proper agitation. The most common prepping problem is trying to prep a small amount of diapers alone. Many machines are just not effective with a very small load size, and dryers can't dry tiny loads either. Get the load size up to a size that will actually work. They will be absorbent soon enough and will continue to improve with use.
Spin cycle speed – When prepping diapers, for the first few cycles especially, use a medium spin speed, not high or ultra. The fabric will become stronger after shrinkage has occurred so don’t be overly rough on them in the first cycle or two. Some newer washing machines have such high speeds that they can damage or rip apart fabrics, so know your washer and what it does.The How-To Booklet is available on the Checkout Page. The Booklet is more detailed than this page is but this will give you a great start.